Sep 16, 2014

Happy National Bourbon Heritage Month...

The Rum House - New York City
Growing up in Istanbul, Turkey in early 80’s, I witnessed a lot of changes in the country. We were blending into the capitalist world and for the first time in my life I was witnessing imported goods hitting the shop windows, taking over slowly but surely. As a kid, I have to say, I wasn’t aware too much about the social and economical aspects of the change but was very excited about the new toys filling the stores. That period was also hard on Tekel, the alcohol department of government, which didn’t have the necessary preparations to fight against the cheap booze from abroad that was now flooding the country. Tekel, which literally means monopoly in Turkish, weakened over the years, got sold to Mey Icki in 2004 and then eventually to Diageo. A true capitalist story… Anyway that’s the explanation for why we started to see imported alcohol brands on bar shelves in Turkey that late.

Istanbul is a big rock town and Jack Daniels didn’t miss that opportunity. It was the first big American Whiskey brand distributed widely and we all did our best to welcome this iconic brand. It was Slash’s choice after all. Who were we to judge? But then, soon enough, Jim Beam entered the competition… I don’t remember exactly why, but I started to favor Jim Beam and continued to do so for a long time.

So that’s the story of how I met bourbon for the first time in my life. Jim Beam White Label was my first bourbon that I deliberately chose to order. Every time I see that bottle it triggers beautiful memories from my hometown. Let’s count it as my first memorable bourbon.
Napoleon House, New Orleans

In 2003 I moved to New York as a whiskey enthusiast and was hungry to learn and to taste as much as I could. While I was educating myself with different expressions of old established brands like Heaven Hill, Four Roses and Wild Turkey, I was constantly making new whiskey friends and also meeting people from industry almost every day. I was on the clouds… There is one bottle in particular from those days that stands out though: Booker’s. - I first tasted it in a bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn when Williamsburg had only a few bars on Bedford Avenue, and I instantly fell in love with it. That bourbon was nothing but glamour. Its artisan-looking label and bottle was very clever marketing. It was hard to believe that it was a Jim Beam product. It was expensive for a bottle of bourbon but certainly affordable, especially when you think that it was over 120-proof. At least that was my excuse. In years it changed from time to time but it’s never disappointed. I would put Booker’s in the number two slot of my Bourbon story.

Bukowski Tavern - Cambridge
Moving from a major city to another is not an easy thing to do. I knew that I couldn’t keep my long distance love relationship with Istanbul and I desperately was trying to be a New Yorker. I started to follow the Yankees and Giants, was on a mission to learn every street in the city by walking for hours every day, was attending every possible social gathering to meet people in my neighborhood, was trying to support local artists and also to be more conscious about using local products. So, me discovering Hudson Whiskey wasn’t a big surprise. When they launched their first line-up I was all over their products. I loved the idea, the story behind it, and most importantly their spirits tasted good. I really don’t know how and when I met Gable Erenzo from Tuthilltown Spirits exactly but his personality sure did help to reinforce my thoughts. Since then I visited the distillery twice and, if I am not mistaken, sampled every single product they’ve bottled till now. I am still a big supporter and hope to see them continue to keep up the spirit. I would put Hudson Four Grain Bourbon in the third slot on my Bourbon story list.

Dorock Bar - Istanbul
After years of tasting whiskey I started to grow a different kind of appreciation for good cheap whiskeys. I really think that it is an extremely hard job to find a recipe that will yield a good whiskey with a reasonable cost and then age, bottle and distribute it worldwide and still be able to sell it for around 20 bucks. I think it is mind-blowing and way harder than releasing a superb single cask whiskey with a four-digit price tag... My unhealthy attraction to dive bars and my quest to find good cheap whiskeys combined together and I started to hit low-key bars wherever I travelled in the States. From my experiences I started to have my favorite low shelf bourbons — I chose two brands among them I respect the most and I would like to list those as my numbers four and five: Evan Williams Black Label and W. L. Weller Special Reserve.

I think the most exciting thing about bourbon is that by law bourbon distillers are allowed to try so many different recipes. We only know that 51% has to be corn, but the rest is all left to the master distiller’s vision. The possibilities are endless. Personally if I walk in a bar the thing that makes me most excited is to see a bottle on the shelf that I never tasted before. It is Bourbon Heritage Month after all, and I think that’s the best way to celebrate it — go out and taste a bourbon you’ve never tasted before. And if you feel like you can share your thoughts below in the comments box. I would love to hear them all..!

Robert's Western World - Nashville

[edited by Teresa Hartmann]

*Originally written for and posted at The Alcohol Professor on September 12th, 2014.

Sep 14, 2014

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt 12yo...

Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt 12yo (40.0%): Beautiful fall Sunday in Cambridge... A little cool but sunny. Perfect day to stay at home, keep your windows open and chill with a book on your lap and a dram in your hand. The book choice is the magnificent travelogue "Queer and Alone" of Jim Strahs and the whisky to pair with is Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt... It is a blended malt from Nikka to honor Masataka Taketsuru, the father of Japanese whisky and founder of Nikka Whisky Distilling Company. It is a 12 year old blend of malt whiskies sourced from both Yoichi and Miyagikyo Distilleries of Nikka. I love these plastic screw caps of Japanese whiskies by the way. Color: Deep amber, clover honey. Nose: First hit is a tropical fruit punch served in a half papaya with umbrellas, etc. Guava, diced pineapples and ripe mango slices. After letting it air a little we get cold brewed coffee, milk chocolate and subtle peat. With a few drops of water old glossy magazines, vintage vinyl covers and wet cardboard aromas add. Palate: Very thin mouthfeel which lets you down a bit after that very exciting nose. Lightly salted caramel ice cream, oak and candle wax. Splash of water makes it even thinner but also add some spiciness: Nutmeg, powdered cloves and carrot cake frosting. Finish: Medium long with toffee and Christmas cake spices. Overall: Well, it doesn't get more Japanese than this... It is not one of the boldest examples of the Japanese whisky around but a very good one for people who wants to enter this world. It is dangerously drinkable and a perfect after dinner dram. I wish it was bottled at a higher abv though. The palate definitely benefits from adding water but you also hesitate to make it too watery by doing so. It stands on a very delicate place at 40% abv. Is it worth of your money around 60-70 bucks? Yeah, I would say so (after a second or two hesitation)...

Sep 13, 2014

Bowmore Dorus Mor 10yo...

Bowmore Dorus Mor 10yo (55.1%): This bottle is actually the 4th batch of the small batch "Tempest" release of Bowmore. But because the Tempest Winery from Washington State has the rights of the name within US, Bowmore couldn't use the name when they brought this expression to the other side of the pond. Instead they ran an online campaign to choose a new name for it and the name Dorus Mor got the highest vote. The spirit is distilled using Islay and Scottish barley only which is malted at Bowmore's own malt house. After the distillation it is filled in first-fill bourbon casks and aged in Bowmore's legendary Vault No.1 warehouse under the sea level. The batch is created by Rachel Barrie and only 2,400 bottles have been made available worldwide. Color: Bright deep yellow gold. Nose: Wintergreen drops, eucalyptus leaves, cold ocean spray and fresh cut peat blocks. Coconut macaroons, rubber bands and seaweed. Water brings greener and also some citrusy aromas: Bitter greens, arugula, tangerine peel and yellow grapefruit juice. Palate: Spearmint leaves and cucumber slices in your gin-tonic and lime zest. Some cream puffs, vanilla bean scrapings and high end blood orange sorbet. Solid peat, cigar ash and milk chocolate. A few drops of water brings earthy notes like dry black garden soil, crushed chipotle pepper, dried sour cherries and roasted pine nuts. Finish: Long with black pepper dust and campfire ash. Overall: An Islay whisky as it should be and exactly how I love it. Good amount of peat, matured in ex-bourbon barrels, still young and vibrant but tamed. Nothing fancy or experimental but solid and very firm. Pretty happy that I own a bottle now...